Look up from your cocktail umbrella and take in the real Hawaii. This is where active volcanos and coral craters vie for attention with art galleries and shave-ice maestros. The surf's up in this laidback multiethnic metropolis.

All-new colour sections highlighting outdoor activities and local residents
All major islands' surfing top spots revealed by a Surfer magazine editor
More listings for outfitters, tours and sustainable travel
Accommodation choices to help you avoid the wallet drain